The Sage Drive Steering Wheel Cover is a soft, grippy sleeve for your daily drive. The body is a dense, woven-looking fabric in sage green, and a corded cream edge runs along both long edges. On the wheel, those cream lines frame the rim on the outer and inner circle.
The texture comes from Tunisian simple stitch. It makes neat vertical columns that look almost knitted and hold up well to hands gripping and sliding. The calm sage and warm cream suit a neutral or light interior.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The flat strip measures 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide by 39.4 in (100.1 cm) long. It fits rims 14.5–15.5 in (36.8–39.4 cm) in outer diameter with a grip circumference of about 4.5–5 in (11.4–12.7 cm).
Construction is simple. You work one narrow sage strip in short Tunisian rows, then add a cream border of single crochet plus reverse single crochet along each long edge. Finally, you stretch the strip around the wheel, seam the short ends, and lace the long edges together on the inner side of the rim.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 4.5 in x 39.4 in (11.4 cm x 100.1 cm), flat
- Fits: rims 14.5–15.5 in (36.8–39.4 cm) outer diameter
- Skill level: Easy–Intermediate (basic Tunisian crochet)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 6 mm (J-10) Tunisian hook for the body; 5 mm (H-8) standard hook for the border
- Number of pieces: 1 (a single strip)
- Layout: one continuous strip, worked across its short width
- Piece size before border: 3.75 in x 39.4 in (9.5 cm x 100.1 cm)
- Border depth: 3/8 in (1.0 cm) on each long edge only
- Width after border: 3.75 in + 0.375 in + 0.375 in = 4.5 in (11.4 cm)
Materials
Choose a smooth worsted cotton or cotton blend. Cotton gives good grip, resists pilling under your palms, and handles heat in a parked car better than pure acrylic. Avoid fuzzy yarns, because they hide the Tunisian columns and get slippery.
- Color A, Sage Green: 100 g, about 180 m (197 yd)
- Color B, Cream: 25 g, about 45 m (49 yd)
These amounts include a margin of roughly 20% for your gauge swatch, seaming, and lacing.
Tools:
– 6 mm (J-10) Tunisian hook, 10 in (25.4 cm) or longer
– 5 mm (H-8) standard crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
– 4 locking stitch markers
– Blocking mat and rust-proof pins
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- TSS – Tunisian simple stitch
- FwP – forward pass
- RetP – return pass
- yo – yarn over
- RS – right side
Special stitches:
Standard return pass (RetP): Yo and pull through 1 loop. *Yo and pull through 2 loops; repeat from * until 1 loop remains on the hook. That loop counts as the first loop of the next row.
Tunisian simple stitch (TSS): Insert the hook from right to left under the next front vertical bar, yo, and pull up a loop. Leave the loop on the hook.
Reverse single crochet (rev sc): Working from left to right, insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yo, pull up a loop, then yo and pull through both loops. This makes the corded, twisted edge.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sts and 14 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in TSS with the 6 mm hook, measured after a light steam.
That works out to 4 sts and 3.5 rows per inch (2.54 cm).
Test first: Before starting the cover, work a swatch of 16 sts by 14 rows. TSS curls toward the RS, so steam it flat and let it cool before you measure.
Checkpoints:
– After Row 14: width 3.75 in (9.5 cm), length 4 in (10.2 cm)
– After Row 35: length 10 in (25.4 cm)
– After Row 70: length 20 in (50.8 cm)
– After Row 105: length 30 in (76.2 cm)
– After Row 138: length 39.4 in (100.1 cm)
– After the border: width 4.5 in (11.4 cm)
If your fabric is too big (fewer than 16 sts per 4 in), go down one hook size. A loose cover will slide and bunch on the rim.
If it is too small (more than 16 sts per 4 in), go up one hook size. If only your row gauge is off, keep your stitch gauge and adjust the row count instead (see Troubleshooting).
The Strip (Color A, Sage)
The strip is worked across its short width, so you only ever hold 15 loops on the hook. Every FwP ends with 15 loops on the hook.
Foundation: With the 6 mm Tunisian hook and Color A, ch 15.
Row 1 (FwP): Insert the hook in the 2nd ch from the hook and pull up a loop. Pull up a loop in each remaining ch across. (15 loops on hook)
Row 1 (RetP): Work a standard return pass. (1 loop remains)
Row 2 (FwP): Skip the first vertical bar; the loop on your hook already counts as stitch 1. Work TSS in each of the next 13 vertical bars. For the last stitch, insert the hook under both strands of the final edge bar and pull up a loop. This firm edge stitch gives a straight side for the border later. (15 loops on hook)
Row 2 (RetP): Work a standard return pass.
Rows 3–137: Repeat Row 2 (FwP and RetP).
- Check your measurements at the Row 35, Row 70, and Row 105 checkpoints.
- Every 20 rows, count your loops at the end of the FwP. There should always be exactly 15.
- Losing a loop usually means you missed the last edge stitch. Gaining one usually means you worked into the first bar.
Row 138 (bind-off row): Skip the first vertical bar. Insert the hook under the next vertical bar, yo, and pull through the bar and the loop on the hook (a sl st). Repeat from * across, ending with a sl st under both strands of the last edge bar. (14 sl sts, plus the first loop; 15 stitch positions)
Fasten off, leaving a 16 in (40.6 cm) tail of Color A for seaming the short ends.
Stitch count summary: 15 sts in every row. There are 138 rows in total: the foundation pass (Row 1), 136 TSS rows (Rows 2–137), and the bind-off (Row 138).
Strip size: 138 rows ÷ 3.5 rows per inch = 39.4 in (100.1 cm). 15 sts ÷ 4 sts per inch = 3.75 in (9.5 cm).
Weave in the starting tail only. Keep the long ending tail.
Border (Color B, Cream)
The cream border goes along the two long edges only. The short ends stay sage so they can be seamed flat and almost invisibly into a ring.
Border gauge: 1 sc per row end. Because each sc sits in one row end, the border runs at the same 3.5 stitches per inch as the rows and lies flat without ruffling or pulling in. Two border rows (sc plus rev sc) add 3/8 in (1.0 cm) of depth.
Long Edge 1, Row 1: With the RS facing and the 5 mm hook, join Color B with a sl st in the first row end at the right corner of a long edge. Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each row end along the edge. (138 sc)
Each sc goes under the firm outer strand of the edge stitch. Do not turn.
Long Edge 1, Row 2: Ch 1. Working left to right, rev sc in each sc back across the row. (138 rev sc)
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Long Edge 2, Rows 1–2: Rotate the strip so the second long edge is on top with the RS facing. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 exactly as for Edge 1. (138 sc, then 138 rev sc)
Short ends: No border. They keep their 15 stitch positions each.
Why the math works:
– Each long edge has exactly 138 row ends, one per row from foundation to bind-off.
– One sc per row end gives 138 sc. Rev sc is worked 1-for-1, so it also gives 138.
– There are no corner stitches to double-count, because each border runs edge to edge and does not turn a corner.
– Width: 3.75 in body + 2 x 0.375 in border = 4.5 in (11.4 cm), which matches a 4.5–5 in (11.4–12.7 cm) grip.
– Length: 39.4 in (100.1 cm), which is less than the rim’s centerline of about 42–44 in (106.7–111.8 cm). That gives about 6–10% negative ease, so the cover grips the wheel instead of twisting.
Final Blocking and Fitting
Step 1: Lay the strip RS up on the blocking mat.
Step 2: Pin it out to 4.5 in x 39.4 in (11.4 cm x 100.1 cm). Place the pins in the cream rev sc row about every 3 in (7.6 cm) so the corded edge stays straight.
Step 3: Hold a steam iron about 1 in (2.5 cm) above the fabric and steam the whole strip. Do not press down; pressing flattens the Tunisian columns and the rev sc cord.
Step 4: Let it dry and cool fully, at least 1 hour, before unpinning. TSS keeps its new shape only once it is completely cool.
Step 5: Place 4 locking markers on each long edge at the 4 spokes’ positions. Measure from the top of your wheel to find them. Most 3-spoke wheels need markers at the left, right, and bottom spokes only.
Step 6: Wrap the strip around the rim with the RS facing out and the cream edges meeting on the inner side of the rim. The long edges should just touch, or come within 1/8 in (0.3 cm) of each other.
Step 7: Bring the short ends together at the top of the wheel. Using the Color A tail, whipstitch the 15 bind-off sts to the 15 foundation chains, 1 to 1. The cover will need a firm pull to close the ring; that is the negative ease working.
Step 8: Thread 2 yd (1.8 m) of Color B on the tapestry needle. Starting beside the seam, lace the two long edges together on the inner side of the rim. Pass the needle under 1 rev sc on Edge 1, then under the matching rev sc on Edge 2. Go 1 stitch to 1 stitch the whole way around.
Step 9: At each spoke, skip the rev sc pairs over the spoke’s width, usually 1.5–2 in (3.8–5.1 cm). Run the yarn along the inside of the cover and start lacing again on the other side of the spoke. Fasten off securely at the starting point.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every row has 15 sts, and the column lines run straight with no slant.
- The strip measures 39.4 in (100.1 cm) long before fitting.
- Each long edge has 138 sc and 138 rev sc.
- The cream cord sits evenly with no gaps and no wavy sections.
- The short-end seam lies flat and lines up column to column.
- The lacing sits on the inner side of the rim and cannot be seen from the driver’s seat.
- The cover does not rotate when you twist it firmly with both hands.
- All tails are woven in at least 2 in (5.1 cm) and trimmed.
Troubleshooting
The strip curls into a tube. TSS naturally curls. Check that you are using the 6 mm hook, not a smaller one, and steam-block it. The border and the stretch onto the wheel will flatten it the rest of the way.
The edges slant or zigzag. You are probably working into the first vertical bar, or skipping the last edge stitch. Count to 15 loops every row.
The cover is too loose on the rim. Remove the short-end seam and the bind-off, take out 7 rows (2 in / 5.1 cm), and rework the bind-off. Then redo the border.
It is too tight to close the ring. Add 7 rows (2 in / 5.1 cm). Each change of 7 rows adds or removes 7 sc and 7 rev sc on each long edge.
The border ruffles. You worked more than 1 sc into some row ends. Pull it out and work exactly 1 sc per row end.
The border pulls in. You skipped row ends. Count again to 138.
Your row gauge is off but your stitch gauge is right. Multiply 39.4 in (100.1 cm) by your own rows per inch to get your total row count.
Care
Remove the cover by snipping and re-lacing the inner edge. Hand wash it in cool water, press out the water in a towel, and dry it flat, pinned to 4.5 in x 39.4 in (11.4 cm x 100.1 cm).
Final Notes
The whole fit comes from one chain of measurements:
– Gauge of 16 sts and 14 rows per 4 in (10.2 cm)
– 15 sts across = 3.75 in (9.5 cm)
– 138 rows long = 39.4 in (100.1 cm)
– 138 sc and 138 rev sc on each long edge
– A 3/8 in (1.0 cm) border on each side, for a 4.5 in (11.4 cm) width
– About 6–10% negative ease on a 14.5–15.5 in (36.8–39.4 cm) wheel
Check each link as you go, and the cover will slide on snugly and stay put. Happy crocheting!