This strand curtain is made from long chains of oval eyelet links. Each oval is lined with double-crochet spokes and pinches in at a narrow waist before the next oval starts. The strands catch the light and sway softly, and each one ends in a full, round-headed tassel.
The palette alternates sage-teal and warm peach for a calm boho look. The strands hang independently from a curtain rod, so the curtain moves freely and lets daylight through the openings.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each strand body measures 72.5 in (184.2 cm) long and 1.75 in (4.4 cm) wide at its widest point. With the tassel, each strand hangs about 79 in (200.7 cm) below the rod. The curtain has 14 strands in two panels of 7.
Each strand starts with a long foundation chain. A return row of chain loops creates the eyelet openings. Then one double-crochet round outlines every oval, and a slip-stitch border adds the hanging loop. A tassel finishes each strand.
Finished Size and Construction
- Strand body: 72.5 in (184.2 cm) long × 1.75 in (4.4 cm) wide
- Total drop with tassel: about 79 in (200.7 cm)
- Skill level: Easy–Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 14 strands (7 sage, 7 peach) + 14 tassels
- Layout: 2 panels × 7 strands, colors alternating
- Piece size: each eyelet unit is 4 in (10.2 cm) long, and each strand has 18 eyelets
- Size before border: 72.5 in (184.2 cm) × 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
- Border depth: 0.125 in (0.3 cm) per side
Materials
Yarn: Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend with good stitch definition. The yield should be about 180 yd (165 m) per 100 g. Cotton keeps its shape when hung and does not stretch the way acrylic can.
- Color A, Sage-Teal: 400 g, about 720 yd (658.4 m)
- Color B, Peach: 400 g, about 720 yd (658.4 m)
One strand plus its tassel uses about 80 yd (73.2 m). These quantities include a generous margin for gauge swatches and for longer strands.
Tools:
– 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Stiff card, 7 in (17.8 cm) tall, for tassels
– 14 wooden beads, 0.75 in (1.9 cm) diameter (optional, for round tassel heads)
– Stitch markers
– Tape measure
– Curtain rod, up to 1 in (2.5 cm) in diameter
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together: (insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull up a loop) twice, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on hook
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rep – repeat
Special stitch – Spoke fan: Work 16 dc into a ch-14 space. Because there are more stitches than chains, the dc fan outward like spokes and give the oval its curve.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 dc and 8 dc rows = 4 in (10.2 cm). The foundation chain should measure 16 ch = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Test one piece first: Make a 3-eyelet sample before starting the full strands.
- Ch 51 (8 waist ch + 42 eyelet ch + 1 turning ch).
- Work Row 2 and Round 3 below with 3 repeats instead of 18.
- The sample should measure 12.5 in (31.8 cm) long and 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide.
Checkpoints:
1. After the foundation chain, the 290 working chains measure 72.5 in (184.2 cm).
2. After Row 2, the eyelets lie as closed slits, and each unit is 4 in (10.2 cm).
3. After Round 3, the strand is 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide at each oval and 0.75 in (1.9 cm) at each waist.
4. After the border, the strand is 1.75 in (4.4 cm) wide.
If the strand is too big: Go down to a 4.5 mm hook, or chain more tightly. If it’s too small: Go up to a 5.5 mm hook. The length matters most. A difference of 1 ch per 4 in adds up to almost 5 in (12.7 cm) over the full strand.
Strand Pattern (Make 14)
Each strand has 18 eyelets and 19 waists. Every waist uses 2 ch and every eyelet uses 14 ch: (19 × 2) + (18 × 14) = 290 working chains.
Foundation: Ch 291. This is Side A of every eyelet.
Row 2 (Side B, opens the eyelets): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch (waist). Ch 14, skip next 14 ch, sc in next 2 ch (waist). Rep from * 17 more times, for 18 repeats total.
Count: 38 sc (19 waists × 2) and 18 ch-14 loops.
Each ch-14 loop forms the second side of an eyelet. It is attached only at the waists, which leaves an opening between the two chains. Do not turn.
Round 3 (spoke round): You are now at the top end of the strand.
- Top cap: Ch 1. Work 3 sc evenly across the end of the top waist.
- Side A (working into the free loops of the foundation chain, top to bottom):
- Sc2tog over the 2 top waist ch.
- Dc in next 3 ch, 2 dc in next ch, dc in next 6 ch, 2 dc in next ch, dc in next 3 ch (16 dc over 14 ch). Sc2tog over next 2 waist ch.
- Rep from * 17 more times.
- Bottom cap: Work 3 sc evenly around the bottom end.
- Side B (bottom to top):
- Sc2tog over the 2 bottom waist sc.
- Spoke fan (16 dc) in next ch-14 sp. Sc2tog over next 2 waist sc.
- Rep from * 17 more times.
- Join with sl st to the first sc of the top cap.
Count per side: 1 + 18 × (16 + 1) = 307 sts.
Round total: 3 + 307 + 3 + 307 = 620 sts.
The sc2tog at each waist draws the two sides together and creates the pinched link. The extra dc on each side bow outward into the oval shape. Each oval has 16 dc on Side A and 16 dc on Side B, so both sides are balanced and the strand hangs straight.
Make All Pieces
Make the following:
- Color A (Sage-Teal): 7 strands and 7 tassels
- Color B (Peach): 7 strands and 7 tassels
Leave a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail at the bottom of each strand to help you find the tassel point later.
Layout grid (A = Sage, B = Peach, as seen from the room side):
Left panel: A B A B A B A
Right panel: B A B A B A B
Joining (Hanging)
The strands are not stitched to each other. Each one hangs on its own loop so that it can move freely.
Method: Thread each strand’s ch-14 hanging loop (made in the border) onto the rod in the order shown in the grid.
Stitch-to-stitch logic:
– The hanging loop is anchored in the center stitch of the 3-sc top cap. This keeps it on the strand’s center line.
– The tassel is tied through the center stitch of the 3-sc bottom cap.
– Because both points sit on the same center line, the strand hangs straight without leaning.
Tension: Chain the hanging loop at your normal tension. If it’s too tight it won’t slide along the rod, and if it’s too loose the strand will sit crooked.
Spacing and size checkpoint:
– Space the strands 2.5 in (6.4 cm) apart, center to center.
– Each panel measures 6 × 2.5 in + 1.75 in = 16.75 in (42.5 cm) wide.
– Adjust the gap between the two panels to fit your window.
Border
Border gauge: 16 sl st = 4 in (10.2 cm). The border matches the dc gauge, so it adds no length.
Round 4 (slip-stitch edge and hanging loop): Do not turn.
- Top cap: Sl st in the first sc. In the center sc, work (sl st, ch 14, sl st). Sl st in the 3rd sc. That’s 4 sl st and 1 ch-14 loop.
- Side A: Sl st in each st down the side. 307 sl st.
- Bottom cap: Sl st in each of the 3 sc. 3 sl st.
- Side B: Sl st in each st up the side. 307 sl st.
- Join to the first sl st and fasten off. Weave in the ends.
Round total: 621 sl st + 1 ch-14 loop.
Why the math works: You work exactly one sl st per stitch, so the counts stay at 307 per side. Each eyelet keeps its 16 + 1 structure, and the length stays at 72.5 in (184.2 cm). The single extra sl st only anchors the hanging loop. The border adds 0.125 in (0.3 cm) to each side, bringing the width from 1.5 in (3.8 cm) to 1.75 in (4.4 cm).
Tassels (Make 14)
- Wrap yarn 30 times around the 7 in (17.8 cm) card.
- Slide a 12 in (30.5 cm) strand under the wraps at the top edge and tie it tightly. Leave both ends long, because you’ll use them to attach the tassel.
- Cut through the wraps at the bottom edge.
- For a rounded head, push the wooden bead into the top center of the bundle so the strands cover it.
- Wrap a 36 in (91.4 cm) strand 8 times around the bundle 1 in (2.5 cm) below the top, just under the bead. Knot it, and needle the ends down into the skirt.
- Trim the skirt so the tassel measures 6 in (15.2 cm) overall.
- Pull the tie ends through the center bottom-cap stitch of a matching strand. Knot them firmly and bury the ends inside the tassel head.
Final Blocking
- Wet each strand thoroughly in cool water and gently squeeze it out. Do not wring it.
- Roll it in a towel to remove excess water.
- Lay it flat and pat it to 72.5 in (184.2 cm) long.
- Open each eyelet with your fingers so it forms an even oval about 3 in (7.6 cm) × 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
- Line up the waists so they sit on one straight center line.
- Steam the tassels and comb the skirts straight with your fingers.
- Let everything dry completely before hanging. Hanging lightly will remove any remaining curl.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every strand has 18 eyelets and 19 waists.
- Each side of each strand has 307 sts, with 16 dc in every oval.
- The strand body is 72.5 in (184.2 cm) long and 1.75 in (4.4 cm) wide.
- The hanging loops are centered and the same size.
- All 14 tassels measure 6 in (15.2 cm) and have even heads.
- The color order matches the layout grid.
- All ends are woven in securely.
Troubleshooting
- Strand twists into a spiral: One side has more stitches than the other. Count the dc in each oval, and make sure both Side A and Side B have 16.
- Eyelets close up: Your Row 2 ch-14 loops are too tight. Chain more loosely, or go up a hook size for that row only.
- Ovals ruffle: Your dc are too loose for the 14-ch space. Go down a hook size.
- Strands are different lengths: The foundation chain tension varied. Measure each strand at the foundation checkpoint before continuing.
- Tassel head slips: Wrap the neck more tightly and add 2 more wraps.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap and dry flat. Re-block before hanging. Dust the curtain occasionally by shaking it gently.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple:
- 16 ch = 4 in (10.2 cm), so each eyelet unit is 4 in (10.2 cm) long.
- 18 units plus the waists give a 72.5 in (184.2 cm) strand.
- The spoke round makes it 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide, and the border brings it to 1.75 in (4.4 cm).
- A 6 in (15.2 cm) tassel gives a total drop of about 79 in (200.7 cm).
Check the measurements at each stage, and all 14 strands will hang evenly.
Happy crocheting!