This hanging bag holder turns a drawer full of loose plastic bags into something you will actually want on the wall. It’s a pink filet mesh tube with solid bands at the top and bottom. A brown cherry branch with pale blossoms and little bobble buds wanders across the front.
The palette is soft: a medium pink body, pale pink petals, deep rose flower centers and a chocolate-brown branch. The open mesh lets you see the white bags inside, which makes the pink look even brighter. The style is cottage-cute and stays practical.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder measures 17 in (43.2 cm) tall, with a circumference of 15 in (38.1 cm). That is about 7.5 in (19.1 cm) wide when flattened.
You work the tube in joined rounds from the bottom up: a solid band, 28 rounds of mesh, then a solid top band. After that you crochet the hanging strap straight off the top edge. Finally, you make the blossoms, buds and branch separately and sew them onto the front.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 17 in (43.2 cm) tall × 7.5 in (19.1 cm) flat width; circumference 15 in (38.1 cm)
- Skill level: Easy to intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: US H-8 (5.0 mm)
- Number of pieces: 1 tube body with an attached strap, plus sewn-on appliqués (3 large blossoms, 1 small blossom, 5 buds, 1 branch, 3 twigs)
- Layout: Single vertical tube, open at both ends
- Piece size: 60 stitches around × 40 rounds
- Size before top band: 15.5 in (39.4 cm) tall
- Top band depth: 1.5 in (3.8 cm), plus a strap 11 in (27.9 cm) long
Materials
Choose a smooth cotton, which holds its shape and won’t stretch out as the holder fills up. The amounts below assume about 85 m per 50 g.
- Color A – Pink (body and strap): 80 g, 136 m
- Color B – Pale Pink (petals and buds): 20 g, 34 m
- Color C – Rose (flower centers): 10 g, 17 m
- Color D – Brown (branch and twigs): 10 g, 17 m
Tools:
– US H-8 (5.0 mm) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– 4 stitch markers
– Scissors
– Tape measure
– Pins and a rolled towel for blocking
All quantities include a safety margin of about 20%.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sk – skip
- rnd – round
- sp – space
Special stitch – Bobble (5-dc bobble): (Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops) 5 times in the same place, then yarn over and pull through all 6 loops on the hook.
Gauge and Checkpoints
- Sc gauge: 16 sts × 16 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Mesh gauge: 4 mesh squares (12 sts) = 3 in (7.6 cm) wide; 8 mesh rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
Each mesh square is 0.75 in (1.9 cm) wide and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall.
Treat the bottom band as your test piece. After Rnd 1, lay the ring flat and measure the full circumference: it should be 15 in (38.1 cm).
Checkpoints (height measured from the bottom edge):
– After Rnd 6 (bottom band): 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
– After Rnd 14 (8 mesh rnds): 5.5 in (14.0 cm)
– After Rnd 22 (16 mesh rnds): 9.5 in (24.1 cm)
– After Rnd 34 (all mesh): 15.5 in (39.4 cm)
– After Rnd 40 (top band): 17 in (43.2 cm)
If your work is too big, go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it’s too small, go up to a 5.5 mm hook. Don’t change the stitch count, because 60 is what makes the mesh repeat work out evenly.
Body: Bottom Band
With Color A, ch 60 and join with a sl st to the first ch, taking care not to twist the chain.
Rnd 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a st here or in any later round). Sc in each ch around, then join with a sl st to the first sc. (60 sts)
Rnds 2–6: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (60 sts)
Place a marker in the joining st. The band should be 1.5 in (3.8 cm) deep.
Body: Filet Mesh
Rnd 7 (set-up): Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), sk next 2 sts. *Dc in next st, ch 2, sk next 2 sts; repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-5.
(20 dc and 20 ch-2 sps = 20 mesh squares; 20 + 40 = 60 sts’ worth)
This works because 60 ÷ 3 = 20, so the last ch-2 lands neatly on the final 2 sc.
Rnds 8–34: Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2). *Dc in next dc, ch 2; repeat from * to the last ch-2 sp. Join to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-5. (20 mesh squares)
That gives 28 mesh rounds in total (Rnds 7–34), adding 14 in (35.6 cm). Always stack each dc directly on the dc below so the grid stays square and the columns run straight.
Border: Top Band and Hanging Strap
Border gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), the same as the bottom band.
Rnd 35 (conversion): Ch 1. Sc in the first dc, 2 sc in the next ch-2 sp. *Sc in next dc, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * around. Join.
(20 sc worked 1 per dc + 40 sc worked 2 per ch-2 sp = 60 sts)
Rnds 36–40: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (60 sts)
When the tube is flattened, each side of the band has 30 sts. A tube has no corners, so there are no corner stitches to add.
Why the math works: each mesh square sits on exactly 3 sts below (1 dc and a 2-st space), and Rnd 35 puts exactly 3 sc back over each square. The top band matches the bottom band stitch for stitch, at 60 and 60, so the tube stays a straight cylinder and doesn’t flare or pull in.
Hanging Strap
Do not fasten off.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in the first 4 sts of Rnd 40. (4 sts)
Rows 2–44: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (4 sts)
The strap is 1 in (2.5 cm) wide and 11 in (27.9 cm) long.
Attach: Count to sts 31–34 of Rnd 40, which sit directly opposite sts 1–4. Holding the strap flat without any twist, sl st through each st of Row 44 and its matching st on the band (4 sl sts). Fasten off and weave in the ends.
When you flatten the tube with the strap ends on the two side folds, the strap forms an inverted V that peaks 4 in (10.2 cm) above the opening.
Appliqué: Large Blossoms (make 3)
Rnd 1: With Color C, make a magic ring. Ch 1, work 10 sc in the ring and join. (10 sts) Fasten off.
Rnd 2: Join Color B in any st. Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join. (20 sts)
Rnd 3 (petals): *Sl st in next st, (hdc, 2 dc) in next st, (2 dc, hdc) in next st, sl st in next st; repeat from * 4 more times. Join.
(5 petals × 8 sts = 40 sts)
The petals are worked into two neighboring stitches, which leaves a small notch at the tip of each one, just like a real cherry blossom. Each blossom measures 2.25 in (5.7 cm) across.
With Color C, embroider 5 short straight stitches outward from the center to suggest stamens.
Appliqué: Small Blossom (make 1)
Rnd 1: With Color C, make a magic ring and work 5 sc in it, then join. (5 sts) Fasten off.
Rnd 2: Join Color B. *(Sl st, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st) in next st; repeat from * 4 more times. (5 petals)
The small blossom measures 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across.
Appliqué: Buds (make 5)
With Color B, make a magic ring and work 1 bobble into it. Ch 1 and pull the ring tight. Fasten off, leaving an 8 in (20.3 cm) tail.
Each bud is 0.5 in (1.3 cm) across.
Appliqué: Branch and Twigs
Main branch: With Color D, ch 56. Sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from the hook and in each back bump across. (55 sl sts) This gives a firm, rounded cord 11 in (27.9 cm) long.
Twigs (make 3): With Color D, ch 16. Sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from the hook and in each back bump across. (15 sl sts) Each twig is 3 in (7.6 cm) long.
Assembly of the Appliqué
- Flatten the tube with the strap ends on the side folds. The face without the round joins is the front.
- Pin the branch diagonally. Start it at the top of the bottom band, 1 in (2.5 cm) from the left fold, and curve it up to Rnd 32, 1 in (2.5 cm) from the right fold.
- Pin one twig at about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) along the branch, angled left. Pin the second at about 7 in (17.8 cm), angled right, and the third near the top end, angled up.
- Using Color D, whipstitch the branch and twigs down by catching the mesh dc posts and sc bands. Stitch through the front layer only.
- Place the large blossoms: one at the top end of the branch, one at the second twig, and one about one-third of the way up the branch. Put the small blossom near the lower right twig tip. Sew each one around its Rnd 2 with Color B.
- Spread the 5 buds along the twig ends, and use their tails to sew them in place.
Final Blocking
- Wet the holder thoroughly and gently squeeze out the water. Don’t wring it.
- Roll it in a towel and press to remove the excess moisture.
- Slide a rolled towel or a 4.8 in (12.2 cm) diameter tube inside to support the shape.
- Line up the mesh columns so they run straight, and make sure the height is 17 in (43.2 cm).
- Pin the blossom petals outward so they lie open.
- Let everything dry completely before hanging.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- 60 sts in Rnds 1–6 and in Rnds 35–40
- 20 mesh squares in every mesh round, with the dc stacked
- 28 mesh rounds in total
- Height 17 in (43.2 cm), flat width 7.5 in (19.1 cm)
- Strap untwisted, 44 rows long, attached to opposite sts 1–4 and 31–34
- 3 large blossoms with 40 sts each and notched petals
- 1 small blossom, 5 buds, 1 branch and 3 twigs, all sewn through the front layer only
- All ends woven in securely
Troubleshooting
- Tube twists in a spiral: Your joins are drifting. Always join into the top of the ch-5 or the first sc, never into the ch-1.
- Mesh leans: You’re placing a dc in a ch-space. Work each dc into the dc below it.
- Top band ruffles: You’ve put more than 2 sc in a space. Recount Rnd 35: it should be 60.
- Top band pulls in: Your tension tightened. Work Rnds 35–40 with a 5.5 mm hook.
- Strap sags or twists: Recheck that the strap is attached at sts 31–34, and press it flat before joining.
- Bags fall out of the bottom: Your bottom band is loose. Rework it with a 4.5 mm hook, keeping the stitch count at 60.
- Blossoms cup: Steam them and pin them flat to dry.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, reshape, and dry flat over a rolled towel. Don’t tumble dry, because the appliqué petals can felt and curl.
Final Notes
The measurement chain runs like this:
- The 60-st ring measures 15 in (38.1 cm) around.
- The bottom band adds 1.5 in (3.8 cm).
- The 28 mesh rounds of 20 squares each add 14 in (35.6 cm).
- The 60-st top band adds another 1.5 in (3.8 cm).
- Together that makes a 17 in (43.2 cm) tube that lies 7.5 in (19.1 cm) wide.
- The 11 in (27.9 cm) strap finishes the hanger.
If you check your gauge on the first band, every later number will follow.
Happy crocheting!