Sage-green crocheted market bag featuring an open-work diamond lace pattern displayed flat on a cream background.

Sea Glass Star Curtain Panel Crochet Pattern

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This curtain panel is made from six-pointed lace stars joined tip to tip. Where the stars meet, open diamond and hexagon windows let light through, so the panel softens the sun without blocking the view.

The sample uses one color, a soft sea-glass teal, in cotton DK yarn. The look is airy and coastal. All instructions use US crochet terms.

One finished panel measures 23.25 in (59.1 cm) wide by 61.75 in (156.8 cm) long, not counting the tabs. With the tabs over a rod, it hangs about 64.75 in (164.5 cm). For a pair like the one shown, make two panels.

You make 36 stars and join them as you go into a grid 4 stars wide by 9 stars tall. A two-round frame then straightens the pointed edges. After that you add one double crochet round all around, a four-row lace band at the bottom and five tabs at the top.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished size: 23.25 x 61.75 in (59.1 x 156.8 cm), not counting the tabs
  • Skill level: Intermediate
  • Terminology: US
  • Yarn weight: DK (3), cotton or cotton blend
  • Hook: 4.0 mm (G-6)
  • Number of pieces: 36 star motifs, joined as you go
  • Layout: 4 stars across x 9 stars down
  • Piece size: each star is 6.5 in (16.5 cm) tall from tip to tip and 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide across the side tips
  • Size before border: 22 x 58.5 in (55.9 x 148.6 cm)
  • Border depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm) on the sides and top. At the bottom it is 2.25 in (5.7 cm): the 0.5 in (1.3 cm) round plus a 1.75 in (4.4 cm) band.

Materials

Yarn: Use a smooth cotton DK, either mercerized or matte. Cotton keeps the star points crisp and hangs straight. Avoid fuzzy yarns, because they fill in the lace windows.

  • Sea-glass teal: 260 g / about 625 m (685 yd) per panel

This amount includes about 25% extra. If you plan to make the panel longer, buy one more skein from the same dye lot.

Tools:
– 4.0 mm (G-6) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– 6 stitch markers
– Measuring tape
– Blocking mats, rust-proof pins and a spray bottle
– Curtain rod, 0.75-1.25 in (1.9-3.2 cm) thick

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • trtr – triple treble crochet
  • sp(s) – space(s)
  • st(s) – stitch(es)

Triple treble crochet (trtr): Yarn over 4 times, insert the hook into the stitch or space, yarn over and pull up a loop (6 loops on the hook). Yarn over and pull through 2 loops 5 times. In DK yarn, a trtr is about 1.625 in (4.1 cm) tall.

Picot: Ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch from the hook.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Border gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm) and 16 dc = 4 in (10.2 cm). One dc row is 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall.

Make one complete star first and check it at each stage:

  • After Round 2: 2.25 in (5.7 cm) across
  • After Round 3: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) across
  • After Round 5, pinned flat: 6.5 in (16.5 cm) from top tip to bottom tip, and 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across the side tips

If your star is too big, use a 3.75 mm hook. If it is too small, use a 4.5 mm hook. Small errors add up: if each star is 0.25 in (0.6 cm) too wide, the panel ends up 1 in (2.5 cm) too wide.

Sage green crocheted star ornament with lace-like openings hanging against a soft, blurred window backdrop.

Star Motif

Start with a magic ring. The beginning ch-3 counts as a dc throughout.

Round 1: Ch 3, 11 dc in the ring, sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. Pull the ring closed, leaving a small center hole. (12 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in the same st, 2 dc in each dc around, sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. (24 dc)

Round 3 (spokes): Ch 6 (counts as dc + ch 3), skip the next dc. Dc in the next dc, ch 3, skip the next dc 11 times. Sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-6. (12 dc, 12 ch-3 sps)

The 12 spokes now alternate between valley spokes (V) and arm spokes (A). The first spoke of the round is a V spoke.

Round 4 (arms): Ch 1, sc in the same st (V). 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch 7, dc) in the next dc (A), 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, sc in the next dc (V). Repeat from * 5 more times. On the last repeat, sl st to the first sc instead of working the final sc. (6 sc, 48 dc, 6 ch-7 loops)

Round 5 (points): Ch 1. Sc in the V sc, ch 3, skip 3 dc, dc in the next dc, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in the ch-7 loop, dc in the next dc, ch 3, skip 3 dc. Repeat from * 5 more times, then sl st to the first sc. (6 sc, 48 dc, 12 side ch-3 sps, 6 tip ch-3 sps)

The side ch-3 spaces form the open windows where the arms meet. The ch-3 at the end of each point is the tip loop, which you use for joining and for the frame.

Fasten off. Turn the star so one point faces straight up. Going clockwise, call the tips T (top), UR, LR, B (bottom), LL and UL.

Make All Pieces

You need 36 stars, all in sea-glass teal. Make Star 1 completely. For each of the other 35 stars, work Rounds 1-4 as written and join the star to its neighbors during Round 5.

Join-as-you-go tip: At a tip that joins a neighbor, replace (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in the ch-7 loop with (3 dc, ch 1, sl st in the neighbor’s tip ch-3 sp, ch 1, 3 dc).

Layout (front view, Row 1 at the top):

Row 1:  S01  S02  S03  S04
Row 2:  S05  S06  S07  S08
Row 3:  S09  S10  S11  S12
Row 4:  S13  S14  S15  S16
Row 5:  S17  S18  S19  S20
Row 6:  S21  S22  S23  S24
Row 7:  S25  S26  S27  S28
Row 8:  S29  S30  S31  S32
Row 9:  S33  S34  S35  S36

Joining

Make the stars in order, left to right and top to bottom. Each new star joins only to stars that are already made:

  • Star on the left: join the new star’s UL tip to that star’s UR tip, and its LL tip to that star’s LR tip.
  • Star above: join the new star’s T tip to that star’s B tip.

Each join connects one tip to one tip with a single sl st. You add no stitches at the joins, so every star keeps its 6 sc and 48 dc. Stars side by side touch at two points, which leaves a diamond opening between them. Stars above and below each other touch at one point, which leaves a hexagon opening.

Tension: Keep the ch 1 on each side of the joining sl st loose. Tight joins make the points curl toward each other and pull the panel narrower.

Size checkpoint: Row 1 should measure 22 in (55.9 cm) across. Two rows should measure 13 in (33.0 cm) tall. The finished grid should measure 22 x 58.5 in (55.9 x 148.6 cm).

Border

The border gauge is 4 sts per inch (2.54 cm).

Edge tips: Each long side has 18 tips: the UL and LL tips of column 1 on the left, and the UR and LR tips of column 4 on the right. The bottom edge has 4 B tips, with 3 joined LR/LL tip pairs between them. The top edge has 4 T tips, with 3 joined UR/UL tip pairs between them.

Frame Round 1: With the front facing you, join the yarn with a sc in the LL tip of S33.

  • Bottom-left corner: Ch 18 (6 drop + 2 corner + 10). Mark the 7th and 8th ch as corner chains.
  • Bottom edge: Sc in the B tip of S33. Ch 10, trtr in the joined LR/LL tips, ch 10, sc in the B tip of the next star 3 times.
  • Bottom-right corner: Ch 18 (10 + 2 corner + 6). Mark the 11th and 12th ch. Sc in the LR tip of S36.
  • Right side: Ch 12, sc in the next side tip 17 times. You finish at the UR tip of S04.
  • Top-right corner: Ch 18 (6 + 2 corner + 10). Mark the 7th and 8th ch. Sc in the T tip of S04.
  • Top edge: Ch 10, trtr in the joined UR/UL tips, ch 10, sc in the T tip of the next star 3 times.
  • Top-left corner: Ch 18 (10 + 2 corner + 6). Mark the 11th and 12th ch. Sc in the UL tip of S01.
  • Left side: Ch 12, sc in the next side tip 16 times. Ch 12, sl st to the first sc.

Each trtr bridges the gap between a joined tip pair and the straight edge.

Frame Round 2: Ch 1. Sc in each sc, trtr and ch around. At each pair of marked corner chains, sc in the first, ch 2, sc in the second. Sl st to the first sc.

  • Top and bottom: 1 corner sc + 10 + 1 + (10 + 1 + 10 + 1) x 3 + 10 + 1 corner sc = 89 sc per edge, 22.25 in (56.5 cm)
  • Each side: 1 corner sc + 6 + 1 + (12 + 1) x 17 + 6 + 1 corner sc = 236 sc per side, 59 in (149.9 cm)
  • Total: 650 sc and 4 corner ch-2 sps

Border Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc). Dc in each sc around, and work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in each corner ch-2 sp. Sl st to the top of the ch-3. Fasten off.

  • Top and bottom: 89 dc (1 in each sc) + 4 corner dc = 93 dc per edge, 23.25 in (59.1 cm)
  • Each side: 236 dc (1 in each sc) + 4 corner dc = 240 dc per side, 60 in (152.4 cm)
  • Total: 666 dc and 4 ch-2 sps

Bottom band: Work in rows across the 93 bottom dc, between the two corner sps.

  • Row 1 (mesh): Join the yarn in the first dc. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), skip the next dc. Dc in the next dc, ch 1, skip the next dc until 1 dc remains, then dc in the last dc. (47 dc, 46 ch-1 sps)
  • Row 2: Ch 3, turn. Dc in each ch-1 sp and each dc across. (93 dc)
  • Row 3: Repeat Row 1. (47 dc, 46 ch-1 sps)
  • Row 4 (picot edge): Ch 1, turn. Sc in the first 3 sts. Picot, sc in the next 3 sts 30 times. (93 sc, 30 picots)

Fasten off. The band adds 1.75 in (4.4 cm) to the length.

Tabs: Work the tabs on the 93 top dc. Each tab is 9 sts, or 2.25 in (5.7 cm), wide. The gaps between tabs are 12 sts, or 3 in (7.6 cm). Counting from the right edge, place the tabs on sts 1-9, 22-30, 43-51, 64-72 and 85-93.

To make a tab, join the yarn with a sc in its first st, then sc in the next 8 sts (9 sc). Ch 1, turn, and sc across. Repeat until you have 27 rows, about 6 in (15.2 cm). Fold the tab to the back and sew the last row behind Frame Round 2. This makes a loop 3 in (7.6 cm) deep.

Why the math works: At 4 sts per inch, each 5.5 in star column needs 22 sts: 10 ch + 1 tip sc + 10 ch + 1 trtr, with a corner sc in place of the trtr at the right end. Four columns give 88 sts, and the first corner sc brings the total to 89. On the sides, the tips are 3.25 in (8.3 cm) apart, so each span needs 13 sts (12 ch + 1 sc). Seventeen spans give 221 sts. Each corner adds 7 sts (6 drop + 1 corner sc), so two corners add 14, for 235. The first tip sc brings the total to 236. In Round 3, each corner adds exactly 2 dc to each side, so 89 becomes 93 and 236 becomes 240.

Final Blocking

  1. Weave in all the ends.
  2. Soak the panel in cool water for 15 minutes, then gently press the water out without wringing.
  3. Roll the panel in towels to remove more water.
  4. Lay it flat on the mats, one section at a time, and pin the edges straight to 23.25 in (59.1 cm) wide.
  5. Pin the length to 61.75 in (156.8 cm), working one star row at a time.
  6. Pin all 6 tips of each star so every star measures 6.5 x 5.5 in (16.5 x 14.0 cm).
  7. Pin out each picot.
  8. Let the panel dry completely before you unpin and hang it.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • 36 stars, each with 6 complete points
  • Every join is a single sl st from one tip to one tip
  • Frame Round 2: 89 sc on the top and bottom, 236 sc on each side
  • Border Round 3: 93 dc on the top and bottom, 240 dc on each side
  • 30 picots along the bottom
  • 5 tabs, each 9 sts wide, with 12-st gaps
  • Panel measures 23.25 x 61.75 in (59.1 x 156.8 cm)

Troubleshooting

  • Points cup forward: The ch-7 loops in Round 4 are too tight. Chain more loosely.
  • Panel pulls in at the middle: The joining chains are tight. Redo those joins with looser ch-1s.
  • Frame edge ripples: The frame chains are too loose. Work them with a hook one size smaller.
  • Frame edge puckers: The frame chains are too tight. Work them with a hook one size larger.
  • Wrong count in Frame Round 2: You probably missed a corner sc or a trtr. Count each edge on its own.

Care

Hand wash in cool water, or machine wash on a delicate cycle in a mesh bag. Lay flat to dry, and re-pin the points if needed.

Sage green crocheted curtains with star motifs hung on brass rod in a bright coastal bedroom.

Final Notes

Here is how the measurements build up:

  • One star: 6.5 x 5.5 in (16.5 x 14.0 cm)
  • Joined grid of 36 stars: 22 x 58.5 in (55.9 x 148.6 cm)
  • After the frame: 22.25 x 59 in (56.5 x 149.9 cm)
  • After Round 3: 23.25 x 60 in (59.1 x 152.4 cm)
  • After the bottom band: 23.25 x 61.75 in (59.1 x 156.8 cm)

If your first star matches the gauge, the whole panel will come out to size.

Happy crocheting!

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