This filet panel puts two white dragonflies on a cool mint mesh background. The open grid keeps it light and airy, and the solid white blocks make the wings and bodies show up clearly from across a room.
The style is classic filet crochet: double crochet posts, chain-2 spaces, and filled blocks. The dragonflies are worked in white right in the rows, so there’s no appliqué and no sewing. A short single crochet border in mint frames the rectangle and squares up the edges.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished panel measures 10.5 x 18.5 in (26.7 x 47.0 cm) after blocking, border included. That size works well as a small wall hanging, a window panel, or a dresser mat.
You work the panel flat from the bottom up in 35 rows on a 19-square grid. The first dragonfly fills Rows 3–16 and the second fills Rows 20–33. After that, you work three rounds of single crochet all the way around.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 10.5 x 18.5 in (26.7 x 47.0 cm)
- Skill level: Intermediate (filet blocks and color changes)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: DK / light (#3), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 3.75 mm (US F-5)
- Number of pieces: 1 single panel
- Layout: 19 squares wide x 35 rows tall, with two dragonflies stacked vertically
- Panel size before border: 9.5 x 17.5 in (24.1 x 44.5 cm)
- Dragonfly motif size: 17 squares x 14 rows, 8.5 x 7 in (21.6 x 17.8 cm)
- Border depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm) per side, 3 rounds
Materials
Pick a smooth, mercerized or matte cotton in DK weight. Cotton gives crisp square holes and holds its shape after blocking. Avoid fuzzy or brushed yarns, which blur the mesh and hide the dragonfly outlines. Choose a white that’s bright enough to stand out clearly against the mint.
- Mint green (Color A): 70 g, about 160 m (175 yd)
- White (Color B): 30 g, about 70 m (77 yd)
Tools:
- 3.75 mm (US F-5) crochet hook
- 4–6 small yarn bobbins or butterflies for white
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
- Rust-proof pins and a blocking mat
- Measuring tape
- Spray bottle
The quantities include a margin of about 15% for your gauge swatch and tails.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
- A / B – mint / white
Special stitches:
- Open square (OS): ch 2, skip the next 2 sts (or the ch-2 sp), dc in next dc.
- Block (BL): 2 dc in the ch-2 sp below (or dc in each of the next 2 sts), dc in next dc. A block uses 3 sts, the same as an open square.
- Color change: Work the last yarn over of the stitch before the change with the new color.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 4 squares x 4 rows = 2 x 2 in (5.1 x 5.1 cm) in filet mesh, before blocking. Each square measures 0.5 x 0.5 in (1.3 x 1.3 cm).
Make a test swatch before you start. Ch 17, dc in 8th ch from hook, then ch 2, skip 2 ch, dc in next ch 3 times, which gives you 4 squares. Work 3 more mesh rows, then measure.
- Too big? Go down 0.25 mm in hook size.
- Too small? Go up 0.25 mm in hook size.
- Squares taller than wide? Work your dc a little more snugly, or use a hook with a shorter throat.
Checkpoints on the panel:
- After Row 2: 9.5 in (24.1 cm) wide, 1 in (2.5 cm) tall
- After Row 16 (first dragonfly done): 8 in (20.3 cm) tall
- After Row 19: 9.5 in (24.1 cm) tall
- After Row 35: 9.5 x 17.5 in (24.1 x 44.5 cm)
Within 0.25 in (0.6 cm) of these numbers is fine, because blocking will even out small differences. If you’re more than 0.5 in (1.3 cm) off at Row 16, change hook size and start again. Small errors add up over 35 rows.
The Panel
Stitch Count Basics
Each row has 19 squares, made of 20 dc and 19 ch-2 spaces, for a total of 58 sts. A block replaces the 2 chains of an open square with 2 dc, so the count stays at 58 sts on every row.
Columns are numbered 1 to 19. The design is perfectly symmetrical around Column 10, so you can count from either edge on both RS and WS rows. Columns 1 and 19 are always open, which means every row starts and ends with an open square.
Turning: Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2). Skip the first ch-2 sp and dc in the next dc. This completes Column 1.
Ending a row: Ch 2, then dc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch-5 from the row below. This completes Column 19.
Working the White
Carry the mint strand along the top of the row below, and work the white dc over it so the mint stays hidden inside the blocks. Each separate white run within a row gets its own bobbin.
At the end of a white run, change back to mint and leave white on the WS. If a run in the next row starts within 1 square of a waiting bobbin, keep using that bobbin. Otherwise, fasten off with a 4 in (10.2 cm) tail.
Foundation and Mesh Rows
With A, ch 62.
Row 1 (RS): Dc in 8th ch from hook. The skipped chains count as the first open square. Ch 2, skip 2 ch, dc in next ch 18 times. Turn. (19 OS; 58 sts)
Row 2: Ch 5, skip ch-2 sp, dc in next dc. Work 17 OS. Ch 2, then dc in the 3rd of the 7 skipped beginning chains, counting from the corner tip. Turn. (19 OS; 58 sts)
Dragonfly 1 (Rows 3–16)
Work each row as open squares, except for the columns listed, which are blocks in B. The figure in brackets is the number of blocks in that row. Every row still totals 58 sts.
- Row 3: Col 10 [1]
- Row 4: Col 10 [1]
- Row 5: Col 10 [1]
- Row 6: Col 10 [1]
- Row 7: Cols 4–7, 10, 13–16 [9]
- Row 8: Cols 3–8, 10, 12–17 [13]
- Row 9: Cols 4–16 [13]
- Row 10: Cols 9–11 [3]
- Row 11: Cols 3–17 [15]
- Row 12: Cols 2–8, 10, 12–18 [15]
- Row 13: Cols 2–8, 10, 12–18 [15]
- Row 14: Cols 3–7, 10, 13–17 [11]
- Row 15: Cols 9–11 [3]
- Row 16: Cols 9, 11 [2]
Example, Row 7 written out: Ch 5, skip sp, dc in next dc (Col 1). Work 2 OS (Cols 2–3), changing to B on the last dc. With B, work 4 BL (Cols 4–7), changing to A on the last dc. With A, work 2 OS (Cols 8–9), changing to B. With B, work 1 BL (Col 10), changing to A. With A, work 2 OS (Cols 11–12), changing to B. With B, work 4 BL (Cols 13–16), changing to A. With A, work 2 OS (Cols 17–18). Ch 2, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch (Col 19). That’s 19 squares and 58 sts.
Here’s how the rows build the shape. Rows 3–6 make the tail. Rows 7–9 make the lower wings, which join the body on Row 9. Row 10 is the thorax, with open mesh on each side to separate the wing pairs. Rows 11–14 make the larger upper wings. Row 15 is the head, and Row 16 adds the two eyes. Dragonfly 1 has 103 blocks in total.
Spacer (Rows 17–19)
Rows 17–19: Work 19 OS in A. (58 sts per row)
Dragonfly 2 (Rows 20–33)
Repeat the Dragonfly 1 list, with Row 20 matching Row 3, Row 21 matching Row 4, and so on through Row 33, which matches Row 16. This makes another 103 blocks, for 206 white blocks across the panel.
Top Mesh (Rows 34–35)
Rows 34–35: Work 19 OS in A. (58 sts per row) Don’t fasten off.
Check that the panel measures 9.5 x 17.5 in (24.1 x 44.5 cm). Weave in all the white tails now, along the dc posts inside the blocks.
Border
Border gauge: You work 1 sc in each st across the top and bottom, and 2 sc in each row-end down the sides. Each row is 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall, and 2 sc fill that height. Working 1 sc per st across the top keeps it exactly as wide as the rows.
In every count below, a side’s count includes the center sc of both of its corners.
Round 1 (RS): Ch 1. Work 3 sc in the last dc of Row 35 (the corner) and sc in each of the next 56 sts. Work 3 sc in the last st (the corner).
Down the side, work 2 sc in each of the 35 row-ends (70 sc). Along the foundation chain, work 3 sc in the first ch, sc in each of the next 56 ch, and 3 sc in the last ch. Work 2 sc in each of the 35 row-ends up the second side (70 sc). Sl st to the first sc.
- Top and bottom: 1 + 1 + 56 + 1 + 1 = 60 sc each
- Sides: 1 + 1 + 70 + 1 + 1 = 74 sc each
- Total: 2 x 60 + 2 x 74 − 4 shared corner centers = 264 sc
Round 2: Ch 1. Sc in each sc, with 3 sc in each corner center sc. Sl st to the first sc.
- Top and bottom: 62 sc each
- Sides: 76 sc each
- Total: 264 + 8 = 272 sc
Round 3: Repeat Round 2. Fasten off and weave in the ends.
- Top and bottom: 64 sc each
- Sides: 78 sc each
- Total: 272 + 8 = 280 sc
Why the math works: Each round adds exactly 2 sc per side, 1 at each end from the corner increases, and 8 sc in total. That’s just enough to turn the corner without cupping or ruffling. The three rounds add 0.5 in (1.3 cm) on each side. That brings the panel from 9.5 x 17.5 in (24.1 x 44.5 cm) to 10.5 x 18.5 in (26.7 x 47.0 cm).
Final Blocking
- Soak the panel in cool water for 10 minutes, then press out the water. Don’t wring it.
- Roll it in a towel to remove excess moisture.
- Lay it RS up on the blocking mat.
- Pin the four corners to 10.5 x 18.5 in (26.7 x 47.0 cm).
- Pin along each side every 1 in (2.5 cm), keeping the edges straight.
- Gently square up any skewed mesh holes with your fingertips.
- Shape the wing edges so the white blocks sit flat.
- Let it dry completely before unpinning, usually 12–24 hours.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every row has 58 sts and 19 squares.
- Columns 1 and 19 are open on every row.
- Both dragonflies have 103 blocks and are centered on Column 10.
- There’s one open row between the lower and upper wings (Rows 10 and 27).
- No mint shows through the white blocks, and no white shows in the open squares.
- The border has 64 sc on the top and bottom and 78 sc on the sides in Round 3.
- The panel measures 10.5 x 18.5 in (26.7 x 47.0 cm), and the corners are square.
Troubleshooting
The panel slants or leans. You probably missed a turning ch-5 or worked the last dc into the wrong chain. Count to 58 sts at the end of every row.
Mint shows through the white blocks. Keep the carried strand snug along the top of the row below, and wrap the white dc fully around it.
The white blocks pucker. You’re carrying the mint too tightly. Stretch the row gently before each color change.
The bobbins tangle. Turn the work clockwise on one row and counterclockwise on the next, and untwist the bobbins at the end of each row.
A dragonfly is off-center. Recount from Column 1, and place a marker on Column 10 at the start of each dragonfly row.
The sides ripple. Work 2 sc per row-end, not 3. If they still ripple, use a hook 0.25 mm smaller for the border.
The panel is too short. Your dc is shorter than gauge. Pull up each loop a little taller, or block more firmly lengthwise.
There are gaps around the color changes. Tug the old strand gently after the first stitch in the new color.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild detergent, then reshape and dry flat. If you need to, steam lightly from the WS, keeping the iron just above the stitches.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple. Each square is 0.5 in (1.3 cm), so 19 squares give 9.5 in (24.1 cm) and 35 rows give 17.5 in (44.5 cm). Three border rounds add 0.5 in (1.3 cm) per side, for a finished 10.5 x 18.5 in (26.7 x 47.0 cm). If your gauge swatch matches, every other number follows. Take your time with the color changes, count your 58 sts on each row, and let blocking finish the job.
Happy crocheting!