Teal crocheted storage organizers with cream lace details, styled on natural wood and hanging on a beige wall.

Peacock Plume Hanging Toilet Paper Holder Crochet Pattern

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This hanging toilet paper holder has a deep teal back panel and three stacked pockets, each holding one standard roll. A cream lace fan covers the front of every pocket, and a small peacock eye in navy, turquoise and gold sits at the center of each fan. The pockets have scalloped rims, and a tapered strap at the top wraps around a wooden ring for hanging.

The style is a little vintage and a little boho. Teal and cream give strong contrast, and the jewel-toned eyes add the peacock detail. The holder works on a towel hook, a door hook or a wall knob.

All instructions use US crochet terms. The back panel measures 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide and 20.5 in (52.1 cm) long when flat. Once the strap is folded around the ring, the holder hangs about 18.5 in (47.0 cm) from the bottom edge to the fold. Each pocket is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide, 4 in (10.2 cm) deep and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.

Here is the order of work. First you crochet the back panel flat in rows. Then you make each pocket as a small rectangular basket worked in rounds. You make the lace fans and peacock eyes separately and sew them onto the pocket fronts. Finally, you sew the pockets to the panel and work a border round.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished panel: 6.5 in x 20.5 in (16.5 cm x 52.1 cm) flat, including the border
  • Hanging length: about 18.5 in (47.0 cm) to the strap fold, plus the ring
  • Skill level: Intermediate
  • Terminology: US terms
  • Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
  • Hook: 5 mm (H-8)
  • Number of pieces: 10 (1 back panel, 3 pockets, 3 lace fans, 3 peacock eyes)
  • Layout: 3 pockets stacked vertically on 1 panel
  • Pocket size: 6 in x 4 in x 4 in (15.2 x 10.2 x 10.2 cm)
  • Panel size before border: 6 in x 20 in (15.2 cm x 50.8 cm)
  • Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm) on every edge

Materials

Use a worsted-weight yarn that is 100% cotton or a cotton blend. Cotton keeps its shape when the pockets are full and copes well with bathroom humidity. You can use acrylic, but the pockets will be softer and may sag.

  • Color A, Teal: 300 g / 510 m (panel and pockets)
  • Color B, Cream: 40 g / 68 m (lace fans)
  • Color C, Navy: 10 g / 17 m (eye centers)
  • Color D, Turquoise: 10 g / 17 m (eye middles)
  • Color E, Gold: 10 g / 17 m (eye outlines)

Tools:

  • 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook
  • Wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) outer diameter
  • Tapestry needle
  • At least 12 locking stitch markers
  • Rust-proof pins and a blocking mat
  • Scissors and a measuring tape

All quantities include a margin of about 15% for swatching and sewing.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • tr – treble crochet
  • sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
  • BLO – back loop only
  • sk – skip
  • sp(s) – space(s)
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • rnd(s) – round(s)

Special stitch – Scallop: Sk 1 st, 5 dc in the next st, sk 1 st, sl st in the next st. Each scallop uses 4 stitches.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm). In the dc mesh, 2 rounds = 1 in (2.5 cm).

Make one pocket before you start the panel. It’s a small piece, so it tests your gauge quickly and shows you how firm the walls will be.

Measure at these checkpoints:

  1. Pocket base after Row 18: 6 in x 4 in (15.2 x 10.2 cm)
  2. Pocket wall after Rnd 9: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall
  3. Finished pocket after Rnd 10: 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
  4. Lace fan: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide x 2.75 in (7.0 cm) tall
  5. Panel after Row 63: 6 in x 14 in (15.2 x 35.6 cm)

If your base is too big, go down half a hook size. If it’s too small, go up half a hook size. Pocket width matters most, because the back of each pocket has to match the panel width stitch for stitch.

Detail of teal crocheted sleeveless top with cream lace branches and embroidered peacock feather in iridescent green and gold.

Back Panel

Use Color A. Work in rows and turn at the end of each row. The ch 1 at the start of a row does not count as a stitch.

Foundation: Ch 25.

Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Turn. (24 sc)

Rows 2–63: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (24 sc)

Checkpoint: the panel should measure 6 in x 14 in (15.2 x 35.6 cm). Place markers on both side edges at Rows 1, 22 and 43. These mark where each pocket base will sit.

Taper

Row 64: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st to the last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (22 sc)

Row 65: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (22 sc)

Rows 66–75: Repeat Rows 64–65 five more times. The decrease rows have 20, 18, 16, 14 and 12 sts, and each plain row keeps the count of the row before it. You end Row 75 with 12 sc. The taper is about 2.7 in (6.9 cm) tall.

Strap

Rows 76–90: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (12 sc)

The strap is about 3.3 in (8.4 cm) long. Fasten off. Before the border, the whole panel measures 6 in x 20 in (15.2 x 50.8 cm).

Pockets (Make 3)

Use Color A.

Base

Foundation: Ch 25.

Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Turn. (24 sc)

Rows 2–18: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (24 sc)

Checkpoint: the base should measure 6 in x 4 in (15.2 x 10.2 cm). Don’t fasten off.

Walls

Rnd 1: Ch 1. Work sc in each of the 24 sts of Row 18. Work 16 sc along the row ends of the short side, skipping 2 row ends spread evenly along it. Work 24 sc along the opposite side of the foundation chain. Work 16 sc along the second short side in the same way. Sl st to the first sc. (24 + 16 + 24 + 16 = 80 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in the BLO of each st around, sl st to the first sc. (80 sc) The unused front loops make a crisp fold, so the walls stand up from the base.

Rnd 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), sk the next st, dc in the next st, ch 1, sk the next st. Repeat from * around, then sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4. (40 dc + 40 ch-1 sps = 80 sts)

Rnds 4–8: Sl st into the next ch-1 sp, ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Repeat from * around, then sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4. (40 dc + 40 ch-1 sps = 80 sts) The mesh section is 3 in (7.6 cm) tall.

Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp around, sl st to the first sc. (40 + 40 = 80 sc) Checkpoint: the wall is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.

Rnd 10: Ch 1, sl st in the first st, Scallop. Repeat from * around, so that the last scallop ends with a sl st into the first sl st. (20 scallops: 100 dc + 20 sl st)

The count works out evenly because 80 divided by 4 is 20, so there’s no partial scallop. Each 24-st long side holds exactly 6 scallops. Fasten off. The pocket now measures 6 in x 4 in x 4 in (15.2 x 10.2 x 10.2 cm).

Lace Fans (Make 3)

Use Color B. Each fan is a half circle worked in turned rows.

Row 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 4 (counts as tr), work 8 tr into the ring and close it into a half circle. Turn. (9 tr)

Row 2: Ch 5 (counts as tr + ch 1), tr in the next tr, ch 1. Repeat from * to the last st, then tr in the top of the turning ch. Turn. (9 tr + 8 ch-1 sps = 17 sts)

Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as tr), ch 3, tr in the next tr. Repeat from * across, working the last tr in the top of the turning ch. Turn. (9 tr + 8 ch-3 sps)

The tr posts line up into 9 long spokes, which look like the shafts of a fanned peacock tail.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in the first tr, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp, sc in the next tr. Repeat from * across. (8 scallops: 40 dc + 9 sc = 49 sts)

Fasten off and leave a 24 in (61.0 cm) tail for sewing. Checkpoint: the fan should measure 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide x 2.75 in (7.0 cm) tall.

Peacock Eyes (Make 3)

Each eye is a teardrop with the point at the top.

Rnd 1 (Color C): Ch 5. Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, hdc in the next ch, dc in the next ch, 6 dc in the last ch. Now work along the other side of the chain: dc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, sc in the next ch. Ch 2 and sl st to the first sc. Fasten off. (12 sts + ch-2 tip)

Rnd 2 (Color D): Join in the ch-2 tip sp. Work (sc, ch 2, sc) in the tip sp, sc in the next 2 sts, hdc in the next st, 2 dc in each of the next 6 sts, hdc in the next st, sc in the next 2 sts. Sl st to the first sc and fasten off. (2 + 3 + 12 + 3 = 20 sts + ch-2 tip)

Rnd 3 (Color E): Join in the ch-2 tip sp. Work (sc, ch 2, sc) in the tip sp, then sc in the next 4 sts. Sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, and repeat from * 5 more times. Sc in the next 4 sts, then sl st to the first sc. (2 + 4 + 18 + 4 = 28 sc + ch-2 tip)

Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The eye measures about 1.75 in x 2.25 in (4.4 x 5.7 cm).

Make All Pieces

  • Color A: 1 back panel and 3 pockets
  • Color B: 3 lace fans
  • Colors C, D and E: 3 peacock eyes

Layout, top to bottom:

         [ ring ]
        [ strap ]
       [  taper  ]
   [ gap: rows 61–63 ]
   [ POCKET 3: rows 43–60 ]
   [ gap: rows 40–42 ]
   [ POCKET 2: rows 22–39 ]
   [ gap: rows 19–21 ]
   [ POCKET 1: rows 1–18 ]

Each pocket covers 18 panel rows, which is 4 in (10.2 cm). Each gap is 3 rows, about 0.7 in (1.8 cm). In total, 18 + 3 + 18 + 3 + 18 + 3 = 63 rows, which matches the panel body.

Joining

Fan to pocket: Choose one long side of the pocket to be the front. Pin the fan so its flat edge runs along Rnd 2 and it sits centered on the front. Its scallops will reach Rnd 8. Using the cream tail, whipstitch through the 9 sc points of Row 4 and through every second dc of each scallop. Then tack the flat edge down to Rnd 2.

Eye to fan: Place the eye over the magic ring with the tip pointing up. Its lower edge should sit 0.25 in (0.6 cm) above the fan base. Sew it down with small stitches through the gold outline.

Pocket to panel: The other long side of the pocket is the back wall. Line up its 24 Rnd 1 sts with the 24 sts of the marked panel row, one stitch to one stitch, and whipstitch across. Next, pin the top corners of the back wall (at Rnd 9) 16 rows above the base row, on the panel’s side edges. Ease the back corners of the pocket evenly between the pins and sew them to the panel’s side edges. Tack the back of Rnd 9 to the panel in 4 places, and leave the back scallops free.

Tension: Keep your whipstitches snug so the seams can hold the weight of a roll, but don’t pull so hard that the panel puckers.

Size checkpoint: After all 3 pockets are sewn on, the panel body should still measure 6 in x 14 in (15.2 x 35.6 cm).

Border

Use Color A. Border gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), the same as the main gauge. One round of border adds 0.25 in (0.6 cm) to every edge.

Rnd 1: Join with a sl st in the first st of the bottom edge and ch 1. Work around the panel as follows:

  • Bottom edge: sc in each of the 24 sts, working 3 sc in the first and last sts. (24 + 4 = 28 sts)
  • Each long side (Rows 1–63): 56 sc
  • Each taper edge (Rows 64–75): 12 sc
  • Each strap side (Rows 76–90): 13 sc
  • Strap top: sc in each of the 12 sts, working 3 sc in the first and last sts. (12 + 4 = 16 sts)

Sl st to the first sc. (28 + 56 + 56 + 12 + 12 + 13 + 13 + 16 = 206 sts) Fasten off.

Why the math works:

  • Long sides: The gauge is 16 sts to 18 rows, a ratio of 8:9. So you work 1 sc per row end and skip every 9th row end, which gives 56 sc for 63 rows.
  • Taper edges: Each slanted edge is about 3 in (7.6 cm) long, which takes 12 sc.
  • Strap sides: The 3.3 in (8.4 cm) strap takes 13 sc.
  • Corners: The extra corner stitches are counted only in the bottom-edge and strap-top totals, so no corner is counted twice.

Hanging loop: Fold the strap through the wooden ring toward the back. Whipstitch Row 90 to Row 76, stitch for stitch (12 sts to 12 sts).

Final Blocking

  1. Mist the holder until it is damp. Don’t soak it.
  2. Lay it face up on the blocking mat.
  3. Pin the panel to 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide, and check that the body from the bottom edge to the start of the taper measures 14.25 in (36.2 cm) including the border.
  4. Fill each pocket with a dry hand towel folded into a 4 in (10.2 cm) cube.
  5. Pin out every scallop on the rims and the fans.
  6. Leave it to dry completely, which takes about 24 hours.
  7. Remove the towels and put in the rolls.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • The panel measures 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide.
  • Each pocket measures 6 x 4 x 4 in (15.2 x 10.2 x 10.2 cm).
  • Each rim has 20 scallops, with 6 across the front.
  • Each fan has 9 spokes and 8 scallops.
  • Each eye has a sharp tip and a rounded base.
  • All gaps between pockets are 3 rows.
  • The border has 206 sts and lies flat.
  • The loop is sewn through all 12 sts.
  • All tails are woven in for at least 2 in (5.1 cm).

Troubleshooting

  • The walls flare out: Recount Rnd 1. You need 80 sts, with 16 on each short side.
  • The pockets sag: Work Rnds 3–8 with a hook one size smaller.
  • The fan cups: Loosen the magic ring a little and check that every space in Row 3 is a ch-3.
  • The fan ruffles: Your tension is loose. Rework Row 4 with 4 dc in each space.
  • The eye tip is rounded: Pull each ch-2 snug before you join the next color.
  • The border waves: Rework it with exactly 56 sc on each long side.
  • The seams pucker: Unpick them and resew with looser whipstitches.

Care

Hand wash in cool water with a mild soap. Lay flat to dry and reshape the pockets while damp. Don’t tumble dry.

Teal crocheted toilet paper holder with peacock lace pattern holding white rolls in a bathroom beside green plant and towel.

Final Notes

Every measurement in this pattern comes from the gauge of 16 sc and 18 rows to 4 in (10.2 cm). The chain of measurements works like this:

  • A 24-st pocket is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide, the same as the 24-st panel.
  • Rnd 1 has 80 sts, which divides evenly into 20 scallops.
  • The 5.5 in (14.0 cm) fan fits inside the 6 in (15.2 cm) pocket front.
  • Three 18-row pockets and three 3-row gaps fill the 63-row panel body.
  • The 206-st border brings the panel to 6.5 in x 20.5 in (16.5 x 52.1 cm).

Measure at each checkpoint before you move on, and every piece will fit.

Happy crocheting!

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