The Lavender Flutter Butterfly Square is a single square motif with a raised butterfly sitting at its center. The background is soft cream with rows of popcorn stitches that give it a bumpy, dimensional texture. A purple border with a twisted rope edge frames the square.
The butterfly has purple outer wings around pink inner wing sections, plus a dark brown body and two antennae with knobbed tips. The wings are lightly stuffed as you sew them down, and the body is a small stuffed amigurumi tube, so the whole butterfly stands up from the surface.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished square measures 7.25 in (18.4 cm) per side.
You will work the cream base square in the round from a magic ring, add the purple border, then make the wings, body, and antennae separately. Finally, you will stuff and sew the butterfly to the center of the square.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 7.25 in x 7.25 in (18.4 cm x 18.4 cm)
- Skill level: Intermediate (popcorns, ovals, light amigurumi)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4)
- Hook: 5 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 base square plus 7 appliqué pieces (2 upper wings, 2 lower wings, 1 body, 2 antennae)
- Layout: One square with the butterfly centered on it
- Base square size before border: 6.25 in (15.9 cm) per side
- Border depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm) per side
- Butterfly size: about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) wingspan and 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall
Materials
Use a smooth worsted-weight yarn so the popcorns and the wing edges show clearly. Cotton or a cotton blend gives crisp definition. Acrylic is softer and slightly fuzzier. Choose four colors with strong contrast.
| Color | Use | Amount |
|---|---|---|
| Cream | Base square | 30 g / 60 m |
| Purple | Border and outer wings | 15 g / 30 m |
| Pink | Inner wing sections | 6 g / 12 m |
| Dark brown | Body and antennae | 6 g / 12 m |
These quantities include a margin of about 15% for gauge swatches and differences in tension.
Tools:
- 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- 4 stitch markers
- Polyester fiberfill, a small handful (about 5 g)
- Sewing pins
- Ruler or tape measure
- Scissors
- Blocking mat and a spray bottle or steamer
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- pc – popcorn
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- rep – repeat
- RS – right side
Popcorn (pc): Work 5 dc in the same stitch. Remove the hook from the loop. Insert the hook from front to back through the top of the first dc of the group. Pick up the dropped loop and pull it through. Ch 1 to lock it.
The closing ch-1 is part of the popcorn and does not count as a separate stitch. Each popcorn counts as 1 stitch. Work into its top on the next round. Popcorns worked on the RS pop toward you.
Reverse single crochet (rev sc): Work from left to right (right to left if you crochet left-handed). Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 dc and 8 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in dc.
Make the base square first and treat its first rounds as your gauge test. Measure flat and unstretched, from edge to edge through the center:
- After Round 1: 1.25 in (3.2 cm)
- After Round 2: 2.25 in (5.7 cm)
- After Round 4: 4.25 in (10.8 cm)
- After Round 6: 6.25 in (15.9 cm)
Each round adds about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) to every side.
If the square is too big: go down to a 4.5 mm hook.
If it is too small: go up to a 5.5 mm hook.
Check again after Round 2 before you continue. Measure each finished wing too (sizes are given below). Wings that come out too large will crowd the square.
Base Square (Cream)
In this section, the “per side” count means the stitches between two corner ch-2 spaces. Each round begins in a corner space.
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in the ring, ch 2. Work 3 dc in the ring, ch 2; rep from * twice more. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. Pull the ring closed. Sl st in the next 2 dc and into the ch-2 sp.
(12 dc: 3 per side, 4 ch-2 corners)*
Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc). Work (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp. Dc in each of the next 3 dc, then work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-2 sp; rep from * twice more. Dc in the next 3 dc and join. Sl st in the next dc and into the ch-2 sp.
(28 dc: 7 per side)*
Round 3 (popcorn round): Ch 3, then work (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp. Across the next 7 sts, work dc, (pc, dc) 3 times. Work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-2 sp; rep from * twice more. Work the 7-st side sequence once more and join. Sl st in the next dc and into the ch-2 sp.
(44 sts: 11 per side, 12 popcorns)*
Round 4: Ch 3, then work (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp. Dc in each of the next 11 sts, then work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-2 sp; rep from * twice more. Dc in the next 11 sts and join. Sl st in the next dc and into the ch-2 sp.
(60 dc: 15 per side)*
Round 5 (popcorn round): Ch 3, then work (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp. Across the next 15 sts, work dc, (pc, dc) 7 times. Work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-2 sp; rep from * twice more. Work the 15-st side sequence once more and join. Sl st in the next dc and into the ch-2 sp.
(76 sts: 19 per side, 28 popcorns)*
Round 6: Ch 3, then work (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp. Dc in each of the next 19 sts, then work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-2 sp; rep from * twice more. Dc in the next 19 sts and join. Fasten off.
(92 dc: 23 per side)*
Checkpoint: The square should measure 6.25 in (15.9 cm) per side. Round 6 is plain dc so the border sits on a flat edge.
Butterfly Wings
Each wing is a pink oval with two purple rounds worked around it. Work the ovals in joined rounds and do not turn.
Upper Wings (make 2)
Round 1 (pink): Ch 8. Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 5 ch. Work 3 sc in the last ch. Rotate to work along the other side of the chain. Sc in the next 5 ch, then 2 sc in the last ch (the same ch as the first sc). Join.
(16 sc)
Round 2 (pink): Ch 3 (counts as dc) and dc in the same st. Dc in the next 5 sts. Work 2 dc in each of the next 3 sts. Dc in the next 5 sts. Work 2 dc in each of the last 2 sts. Join and fasten off pink.
(22 dc)
Checkpoint: The pink section should be about 2 in (5.1 cm) long.
Round 3 (purple): Join purple in the first st. Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc in the next 5, 2 sc in each of the next 6, sc in the next 5, and 2 sc in each of the last 4. Join.
(34 sc)
Round 4 (purple): Ch 2 (does not count). Work [hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st] 2 times. Hdc in the next 5. Work [hdc, 2 hdc] 6 times. Hdc in the next 5. Work [hdc, 2 hdc] 4 times. Join and fasten off, leaving a 16 in (40.6 cm) tail for sewing.
(46 hdc)
Checkpoint: Each upper wing should be 2.75 in x 2 in (7.0 cm x 5.1 cm).
Lower Wings (make 2)
Round 1 (pink): Ch 6. Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 3 ch. Work 3 sc in the last ch. Along the other side of the chain, sc in the next 3 ch, then 2 sc in the last ch. Join.
(12 sc)
Round 2 (pink): Ch 3 (counts as dc) and dc in the same st. Dc in the next 3. Work 2 dc in each of the next 3. Dc in the next 3. Work 2 dc in each of the last 2. Join and fasten off pink.
(18 dc)
Checkpoint: The pink section should be about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) long.
Round 3 (purple): Join purple and ch 1. Work 2 sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc in the next 3, 2 sc in each of the next 6, sc in the next 3, and 2 sc in each of the last 4. Join.
(30 sc)
Round 4 (purple): Ch 2 (does not count). Work [hdc, 2 hdc] 2 times. Hdc in the next 3. Work [hdc, 2 hdc] 6 times. Hdc in the next 3. Work [hdc, 2 hdc] 4 times. Join and fasten off, leaving a 14 in (35.6 cm) tail.
(42 hdc)
Checkpoint: Each lower wing should be 2.25 in x 1.75 in (5.7 cm x 4.4 cm).
Butterfly Body (Brown)
The body is worked in continuous spiral rounds. Place a marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go.
- Round 1: 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
- Round 2: 2 sc in each st (12)
- Rounds 3–4: Sc in each st (12)
- Round 5: Sc2tog 6 times (6). Stuff the head firmly.
- Round 6: 2 sc in each st (12)
- Rounds 7–8: Sc in each st (12)
- Round 9: (Sc, sc2tog) 4 times (8)
- Rounds 10–15: Sc in each st (8). Stuff as you go.
- Round 16: Sc2tog 4 times (4)
Fasten off. Thread the tail through the remaining stitches and pull them closed. Keep a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail for sewing.
Segments: Use a strand of brown yarn to wrap the abdomen tightly once between Rounds 11 and 12, and again between Rounds 13 and 14. Knot the ends and hide them inside the body.
Checkpoint: The body should be 3.5 in (8.9 cm) long and about 0.75 in (1.9 cm) wide.
Antennae (Brown, make 2)
Ch 14. Work a pc in the 4th ch from the hook; the 3 skipped chains fold into the knob. Sl st in each of the remaining 10 ch. Fasten off and leave an 8 in (20.3 cm) tail.
Checkpoint: Each antenna should be about 2 in (5.1 cm) long, including the knob.
Attaching the Butterfly
Attach the butterfly before the border so that you can reach the back of the square easily. Measurements below are taken from the Round 6 edge.
- Body: Pin the body along the vertical center line, with the top of the head 1.5 in (3.8 cm) below the top edge. Whipstitch it down along both sides of the underside.
- Upper wings: Tuck the narrow end of each upper wing about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) under the side of the body at Rounds 6–9. Angle the wing up and outward at about 30°.
- Lower wings: Tuck the lower wings under the body at Rounds 10–13 and angle them down and outward.
- Stuffing: Sew around each wing through the back loops of the final hdc round. When about 1 in (2.5 cm) remains open, push in a small wisp of fiberfill and then close the gap. Keep the stuffing light so the wing stays domed, not round.
- Antennae: Sew the base of each antenna at the top of the head. Curve them outward in a slight V and tack each one down at two points.
Border (Purple)
Border gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). This matches the stitch width of the base square’s dc. Because of this, 1 sc per dc lies flat without ruffling or pulling.
In this section, “per side” means the stitches between two corner center stitches.
Border Round 1 (conversion round): Join purple in any corner ch-2 sp. Ch 1. Work 3 sc in the ch-2 sp, then sc in each of the next 23 dc; rep from * around and join.
– Count: 92 sc worked 1 per existing dc, plus 12 corner sc (3 in each of the 4 corner spaces) = 104 sc*.
– This gives 25 per side plus 4 corner center stitches.
Border Round 2: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st, and 3 sc in each corner center st. Join.
– Count: 100 sc worked 1 per stitch, plus 3 sc in each of the 4 corner centers = 112 sc.
– This gives 27 per side plus 4 corner center stitches.
Border Round 3: Ch 1. Work 1 rev sc in each st, and 2 rev sc in each corner center st. Join and fasten off.
– Count: 108 rev sc worked 1 per stitch, plus 2 in each of the 4 corner centers = 116 sts.
Why the math works: The base square’s side is 6.25 in (15.9 cm). At 4 sc per inch, that side needs about 25 stitches, which is exactly what Round 1 places per side.
Round 2 extends each side by 0.5 in (1.3 cm) in total, because the border grows outward at both corners. At 4 sc per inch, that 0.5 in needs 2 more stitches, so each side goes from 25 to 27.
The rev sc round adds height only. Its corner pairs keep the corners from cupping. The border adds 0.5 in (1.3 cm) to each side, so 6.25 in + 0.5 in + 0.5 in = 7.25 in (18.4 cm).
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends on the back. Run each end through at least 1 in (2.5 cm) of matching color.
- Lay the square face up on the blocking mat.
- Pin each corner so the sides measure 7.25 in (18.4 cm). Then add pins along each side, about 1 in (2.5 cm) apart.
- Lightly mist or steam only the flat cream and purple areas. Hold the steam about 1 in (2.5 cm) above the fabric. Do not press the popcorns flat.
- Keep steam and pins off the stuffed wings and body.
- Let the square dry completely, then remove the pins.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- [ ] All four sides measure 7.25 in (18.4 cm), with square corners.
- [ ] Round 6 has 92 dc (23 per side).
- [ ] The border totals are 104, 112, and 116.
- [ ] All 40 popcorns pop to the RS.
- [ ] The wings match in pairs: upper 2.75 in x 2 in (7.0 cm x 5.1 cm) and lower 2.25 in x 1.75 in (5.7 cm x 4.4 cm).
- [ ] The body is centered, with its head 1.5 in (3.8 cm) from the base square edge.
- [ ] The wings are domed evenly and no stuffing shows through.
- [ ] The antennae are symmetrical and securely tacked.
- [ ] No ends are visible on the front.
Troubleshooting
Popcorns push to the back: You are working on the wrong side. Make sure you work every popcorn round facing the RS.
Sides bow outward: You may have added extra stitches. Recount each side against the stitch counts given above.
Corners are rounded: The ch-2 corner spaces are too loose. Chain more tightly, or try ch 1 with a tight tension.
The border ruffles: Your sc is looser than 16 sc = 4 in. Work the border with a 4.5 mm hook.
The border pulls in: Your sc is too tight. Work the border with a 5.5 mm hook.
Wings are too large for the square: Your hdc round is too loose. Remake Round 4 with a 4.5 mm hook.
Wings look lumpy: You used too much fiberfill. Remove some and spread the rest evenly.
The body leans to one side: Sew both sides of the underside of the body down, not just one.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with a mild soap and press out the water in a towel. Lay flat to dry, and reshape the wings by hand while the square is still damp.
Final Notes
The measurement chain runs as follows. Gauge of 16 dc = 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a base square of 6.25 in (15.9 cm) per side with 92 dc. The wings measure 2.75 in (7.0 cm) and 2.25 in (5.7 cm) long, and the body is 3.5 in (8.9 cm). The three border rounds of 104, 112, and 116 stitches add 0.5 in (1.3 cm) to each side, for a finished square of 7.25 in (18.4 cm).
Optional: if you would like a larger project later, several of these squares could be joined into a pillow front. This pattern itself describes one square.
Happy crocheting!