This hanging wall pocket looks like a tulip bud. A rounded teardrop body holds small things like a comb, a washcloth or a sprig of greenery. Two petal appliqués overlap across the front, a tall back panel tapers into a tab around a wooden ring, and a long tassel hangs from the bottom point.
The whole piece uses one color: natural cream cotton cord. The moss texture (single crochet and chain-1 spaces) gives a nubby surface with small holes, and a reverse single crochet edge makes a raised, corded outline on the rim and on each petal. It suits a bathroom, an entryway or a boho bedroom wall.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished pocket is about 6 in (15.2 cm) wide and 11.2 in (28.4 cm) tall from the bottom point to the top of the ring fold. The tassel adds 6 in (15.2 cm) below.
Construction is simple. You work the body in joined rounds from the bottom point up, then work the back panel in rows over half the stitches. Next comes a two-round border around the full opening, then two petals worked in rows. Finally you sew the petals on, fold the tab over the ring, and add the tassel.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished pocket size: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide x 11.2 in (28.4 cm) tall, plus a 6 in (15.2 cm) tassel
- Skill level: Easy to intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Bulky (5) cotton cord
- Hook: 6.0 mm (US J-10)
- Number of pieces: 1 body plus 2 petal appliqués, all sewn into one pocket
- Layout: Petals overlap by 1.6 in (4.1 cm) at the center front
- Body size before border: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide x 11.7 in (29.7 cm) tall
- Petal size: 3.3 in x 4.5 in (8.4 cm x 11.4 cm) before edging, 4.3 in x 5.5 in (10.9 cm x 14.0 cm) after
- Border depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm)
Materials
Yarn: Use a bulky (5) cotton cord or a soft braided cotton macramé cord about 4–5 mm thick. Cotton keeps the pocket firm and makes a crisp tassel. Acrylic will sag under weight.
- Natural cream: 150 g, about 180 m. That covers about 110 g for the crochet and 25 g for the tassel and wraps.
Quantities include a margin of about 15 g for swatching and tails.
Tools:
- 6.0 mm (US J-10) crochet hook
- Wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) outer diameter
- Tapestry needle with a large eye
- 2 locking stitch markers
- Rigid card, 6.5 in (16.5 cm) long, for the tassel
- Sharp scissors, ruler or tape measure
- Rustproof pins and a spray bottle for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- sp(s) – space(s)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd(s) – round(s)
- rsc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch): working left to right (right-handed), insert hook into the next st to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops.
- pair – one sc plus its ch-1, which counts as 2 sts.
- inc – moss increase: (sc, ch 1) twice in the same ch-1 sp.
Row types for flat moss:
- Row A: ch 1, turn, sc in first ch-1 sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp) across. This gives 1 sc fewer than the previous row.
- Row B: ch 1, turn, sc in first sc, (ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp) across, ch 1, sc in last sc. This gives 1 sc more than the previous row.
A flat moss row with n sc has n − 1 ch-1 sps, so it is 2n − 1 sts wide.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 5 pairs (10 sts) and 10 rnds of moss = 3 in (7.6 cm). That means 1 st = 0.3 in (0.8 cm) wide and 1 rnd or row = 0.3 in (0.8 cm) tall.
Work one petal before starting the body. It is the quickest test. After Row 15 it should measure 3.3 in (8.4 cm) wide at its widest point and 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall.
Checkpoints:
- After Rnd 7: the bottom cup is 2.1 in (5.3 cm) tall. Flattened, it is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide.
- After Rnd 20: the body is 6 in x 6 in (15.2 cm x 15.2 cm) flat.
- After back Row 9: total height 8.7 in (22.1 cm), back width 5.7 in (14.5 cm).
- After back Row 15: total height 10.5 in (26.7 cm), tab width 2.1 in (5.3 cm).
- After back Row 19: total height 11.7 in (29.7 cm).
If too big: go down one hook size (5.5 mm). If too small: go up to 6.5 mm. A difference of 0.3 in (0.8 cm) over 3 in (7.6 cm) changes the pocket width by about 0.6 in (1.5 cm), so fix it before continuing.
Body
The body is worked in joined rounds, right side facing, without turning. Every rnd except Rnd 1 starts with: sl st into the first ch-1 sp, ch 1. Every rnd ends with: join with sl st to the first sc.
Rnd 1: Magic ring, ch 1, (sc, ch 1) 6 times in ring, join. Pull the ring closed. (6 pairs, 12 sts)
Rnd 2: [inc in next sp, (sc, ch 1) in next sp] 3 times. (9 pairs, 18 sts)
Rnd 3: [inc in next sp, (sc, ch 1) in each of next 2 sps] 3 times. (12 pairs, 24 sts)
Rnd 4: [inc in next sp, (sc, ch 1) in each of next 5 sps] 2 times. (14 pairs, 28 sts)
Rnd 5: [inc in next sp, (sc, ch 1) in each of next 6 sps] 2 times. (16 pairs, 32 sts)
Rnd 6: [inc in next sp, (sc, ch 1) in each of next 7 sps] 2 times. (18 pairs, 36 sts)
Rnd 7: [inc in next sp, (sc, ch 1) in each of next 8 sps] 2 times. (20 pairs, 40 sts)
Rnds 1–3 make the rounded tip. Rnds 4–7 add only 2 pairs each, at two opposite points, so the bottom curves gently into the sides. Those two increase columns are the side folds. Place a marker on each one.
Rnds 8–20: (sc, ch 1) in each sp around. (20 pairs, 40 sts each rnd)
Move the markers up as you go. Do not fasten off.
Back Panel
The back panel is worked in rows over the 10 ch-1 sps of Rnd 20 that lie between the markers on the back half.
Row 1 (RS): ch 1, sc in first back sp, (ch 1, sc in next sp) 9 times. (10 sc, 9 sps, 19 sts)
Row 2: Row B. (11 sc, 10 sps, 21 sts)
Rows 3–9: Alternate Row A and Row B, ending with Row A. Odd rows have 10 sc, even rows have 11 sc. (Row 9: 10 sc, 19 sts)
Taper, Rows 10–15: Work Row A six times. Each row has 1 sc fewer: 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4 sc. (Row 15: 4 sc, 3 sps, 7 sts)
Every Row A loses 0.6 in (1.5 cm) of width, so the back narrows evenly into the tab.
Rows 16–19 (tab): Row B (5 sc), Row A (4 sc), Row B (5 sc), Row A (4 sc). (Row 19: 4 sc, 3 sps, 7 sts)
Fasten off.
Petals (Make 2)
The petals are worked flat in rows from the pointed bottom to the rounded top.
Row 1: ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook. (1 sc)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, (sc, ch 1, sc) in the sc. (2 sc, 1 sp)
Rows 3–6: Row B. (3, 4, 5, 6 sc; Row 6: 11 sts)
Rows 7–13: Alternate Row A and Row B, starting and ending with Row A. Odd rows have 5 sc, even rows have 6 sc.
Rows 14–15: Row A twice. (4 sc, then 3 sc; Row 15: 5 sts)
Do not fasten off.
Petal Edging Rnd 1: ch 1. Working down the side, sc in each row end (15 sc), 3 sc in the bottom tip, sc in each row end up the second side (15 sc). Across Row 15: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st (7 sc). Join. (15 + 3 + 15 + 7 = 40 sc)
Petal Edging Rnd 2: ch 1, rsc in each sc around, join. (40 rsc)
Fasten off, leaving a 24 in (61.0 cm) tail for sewing. The petal now measures 4.3 in x 5.5 in (10.9 cm x 14.0 cm). The 3 sc at the tip keep the point sharp, and the 2 extra sc at each top corner round the top.
Border
Border gauge: 1 sc per existing st and 1 sc per row end. Both units are 0.3 in (0.8 cm), so the edge stays the same length and lies flat.
Border Rnd 1: With RS facing, join yarn in the first front sc of Rnd 20, just after the back panel.
- Front rim: sc in each sc and each ch-1 sp across the front half (20 sc).
- First side of back panel: sc in each row end, Rows 1–19 (19 sc).
- Tab top (Row 19): 2 sc in first st, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in last st (9 sc).
- Second side of back panel: sc in each row end, Rows 19–1 (19 sc).
Join. (20 + 19 + 9 + 19 = 67 sc)
No sts are added or skipped where the front rim meets the back panel sides. The Row 1 end is the first st of each side count.
Border Rnd 2: ch 1, rsc in each sc around, join. (67 rsc)
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Why the math works: The front rim has 10 pairs, which is 20 sts and 6 in (15.2 cm), so 20 sc fit exactly. Each side has 19 rows, which is 5.7 in (14.5 cm), so 19 sc fit exactly. The tab top has 7 sts (2.1 in / 5.3 cm). The 9 sc there are 7 matched sts plus 1 extra sc at each corner, so they turn the corners without cupping. The border adds 0.5 in (1.3 cm) to each edge: the front rim reaches 6.5 in (16.5 cm), the panel reaches 12.2 in (31.0 cm) and the tab becomes 3.1 in (7.9 cm) wide.
Assembly
Petals: Flatten the body with the back panel behind. Pin the first petal with its point at Rnd 5, 1.5 in (3.8 cm) above the bottom tip, angled so its top leans toward one side. Pin the second petal the same way, mirrored, overlapping the first by 1.6 in (4.1 cm) at center. Together they span 7 in (17.8 cm), so 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wraps around each side. Their tips reach 7 in (17.8 cm), which is 0.5 in (1.3 cm) above the rim.
Whipstitch each petal through the inside of the rsc edge, sewing only through the front layer of the body. Leave the top 1 in (2.5 cm) of each petal free, so the tips stand up like an open bud.
Ring: Fold the top 1 in (2.5 cm) of the tab over the bottom of the ring, to the back. Whipstitch the edge to the back panel. With a 24 in (61.0 cm) strand, wrap tightly just below the ring for 0.75 in (1.9 cm) to gather the tab. Thread the end under the wraps and trim.
Tassel: Wrap cord 24 times around the 6.5 in (16.5 cm) card. Slide a 12 in (30.5 cm) tie strand under the top loops, then cut the bottom loops. Thread both tie ends through the center of Rnd 1, knot them tightly inside the pocket and weave them in. With a 36 in (91.4 cm) strand, wrap the tassel neck just below the tip for 0.75 in (1.9 cm). Trim the strands evenly to 6 in (15.2 cm).
Final Blocking
- Mist the pocket lightly until it is damp but not wet.
- Stuff the pocket with a rolled towel to shape the rounded bottom.
- Lay it flat and check the width: 6 in (15.2 cm).
- Pin the back panel straight, keeping the taper even on both sides.
- Curl the free petal tips slightly outward with your fingers.
- Steam the tassel and comb it straight.
- Let everything dry completely before hanging.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Rnd 20 has 20 pairs, and the body lies 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat.
- Back panel Row 19 has 4 sc and is 2.1 in (5.3 cm) wide before the border.
- The border has 67 sts, with no ruffling or cupping.
- Both petals have 40 edge sts and match in size, 4.3 in x 5.5 in (10.9 cm x 14.0 cm).
- The petal overlap is 1.6 in (4.1 cm) and centered.
- The pocket opening is not sewn closed.
- The ring wrap is tight and the tab sits centered.
- The tassel is even at 6 in (15.2 cm), with a neat wrapped neck.
Troubleshooting
- Bottom is pointy or cone-shaped: Rnds 1–3 were worked too tightly. Loosen up, or check that Rnd 3 has 12 pairs.
- Bottom is flat and ruffled: You added too many increases. Rnds 4–7 add only 2 pairs each.
- Side seam drifts: That’s normal with joined moss rnds. Re-place the markers at Rnd 20 before starting the back panel.
- Back panel edges look zigzag: Rows A and B naturally differ by 1 sc. Border Rnd 1 evens them out.
- Border ruffles: You worked extra sts. Recount each side: 20, 19, 9, 19.
- Pocket sags: Your cord is too soft. Go down a hook size or use a firmer cotton.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Press out the water, reshape around a towel and dry flat. Comb the tassel straight while it is damp.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple. Each st and each row is 0.3 in (0.8 cm). Twenty pairs give a 6 in (15.2 cm) wide body. Twenty rnds plus nineteen rows give 11.7 in (29.7 cm). The 0.5 in (1.3 cm) border and the 1 in (2.5 cm) fold over the ring bring the hanging pocket to 11.2 in (28.4 cm). The petals are 4.3 in x 5.5 in (10.9 cm x 14.0 cm), and the tassel is 6 in (15.2 cm). If your petal swatch matches gauge, every other number follows.
Happy crocheting!